Showing posts with label San Francisco. Show all posts
Showing posts with label San Francisco. Show all posts

Saturday, 11 July 2020

Bow, wow


My first Greek teacher at school was one of those wizened, old-school schoolmasters they don't seem to make anymore. He was a deeply civilized man - he played the cello and the piano to concert standard as well as being able to talk more entertainingly about Cicero (an advanced skill in itself). He was usually kindly and often humorous, but he also had a stern side. I remember him leaning over my friend (who had just farted in class), his face inches away, pronouncing, very distinctly, 'Let nothing get in the way of learning!' It was rumoured he'd been in the SAS. When we got too rowdy supporting the First XV he would simply walk along the touchline and we'd all go quiet.

It was the same walk as he had in chapel. Somehow he was always the last one in, though I don't think that was an official role. We'd all be fidgeting, gossiping, poking each other with compasses, that sort of thing. He would walk down the aisle, his clipping shoes sealing up the silence behind him like he was zipping up the door of a tent. And when he got to the end, he would bow his head to the altar.

It was interesting to me partly because he was usually so upright. Later I encountered the same oscillation between bowing and upright posture at the San Francisco Zen Centre. It took me years of experience with different Buddhist groups before I could put aside my distaste for bowing to Buddha statues. Whether it was a Western egalitarianism or a Protestant distaste for idols, I didn't like it. Part of me still doesn't. And - something it's taken me years to admit to myself - part of me does.

The rationale for the formal postures they have at Western Zen centres tends to focus on mindfulness. Bowing and then standing upright and so on at different times certainly does require a certain alertness, but there's also something else going on. Shunryu Suzuki, the founder of the SF centre, apparently tripled the number of bows there because he thought Westerners needed to 'get their heads down.' The Tibetans who do full protestations have a phrase about that practice as a way to 'turn the cup upside down.' Bowing is, in other words, a way of practising and cultivating humility.

But it can also go deeper. Pack animals that have clear hierarchies in the wild - dogs, for example - seem to feel more secure in the presence of a undisputed top dog (a role human owners have stepped into). We may have something of this in ourselves. Bowing to Christ or the Buddha may be as much about handing over responsibility to them as anything else. And surrendering responsibility over ourselves is something we seem to find strangely comforting. There's something of this in the erotic sphere too, with a whole subculture of people who enjoy putting themselves in subordinate positions. Kneeling as part of oral sex and as part of religious ritual may not be as far apart as we like to think (a similarity that's been noted by generations of poets).

An increase in humility in one person is often accompanied by a growth in pride somewhere else, though, and humility can sit dangerously close to humiliation. That's what used to give me the willies about bowing, and still does occasionally. The Kings of Persia used to demand a full prostration from their vassals, something the Greeks called proskynesis. (Earlier, Kings of Assyria had required the same form of obeisance; below is the black obelisk of Shalmeneser III, who is standing over the defeated Jehu of Israel). When Alexander the Great started demanding similar treatment, his Greek and Macedonian peers took it as a sign of a slide towards tyranny. Forcing people into head-down positions and onto the ground can be elements of torture, featured from medieval heresy trials to the prisons at Abu Ghraib.


The former San Francisco 49ers quarterback Colin Kaepernick's ritual of 'taking a knee' in protest against perceived injustice has now been more widely adopted as part of the 'Black Lives Matter' movement. The posture is uncannily similar to the way Catholics genuflect to the altar. That, of course, isn't necessarily to the discredit either of the protests or of Catholicism. As we've seen, bowing clearly has deep roots in human psychology as an expression of devotion. It's a central part of the human palette of gestures, as much as hugging someone or jumping for joy.

As the same time, given its potential for abuse it's easy to see why some (like the UK Foreign Secretary Dominic Raab) have refused to take a knee, seeing it as a symbol of submission. That it clearly is, though perhaps what's really going on in such cases isn't a distaste for submission in any context, but simply for submission to that particular cause (and Raab did indicate that he would bend the knee for the Queen). My old Greek master bowed to his idea of God, but apparently not for much else. This might be part of the point of religious types of bowing, to find a way of satisfying the human urge for submission in a way that nonetheless preserves our independence. Whether that works out in practice will depend partly on your idea of God.

Others will particularize their acts of submission, holding their heads up high in everyday life while choosing not to in certain contexts. But it might make sense to always remain a little on guard wherever we choose to bow our heads. I know it's possible to get too hung up on this; after all, bowing is a very common way simply of greeting other people across the Far East. But when it comes to more ritualized bowing, the kind of bowing that turns your heart upside down, it might be worth choosing your masters wisely. Be careful, in other words, what you bow to.



Saturday, 6 June 2020

Stairway walks in Wellington #1: Oriental Parade to Mount Vic Lookout (and back again)


This post is a tribute to Ada Bakalinsky and her classic Stairway Walks in San Francisco, which was once gifted to me by a fellow Hellenist. Anyone who's lived in both cities (as I've had the good fortune to do) or has even been to both immediately notices the similarity - both are compact, hilly cities build around a bay (with all the weather that that brings). And, though SF's obviously a lot larger, I'd wager that windy Welly can more than hold its own in terms of unexpected shortcuts from one vertical plane to another, and in terms of stairways in particular. So I thought I'd write up a Bakalinskian 'stairway walk' in Wellington here, partly just because it's an enjoyable thing to do. It may be the first of many, or the last of one. We'll see.

But for now, here's a walk that'll take you from down by the harbour on Oriental Bay up to the commanding heights of Mount Victoria Lookout and back again, with an embarrassment of prospects along the way. It think it took me about an hour and a half, but I could imagine it filling out up to two hours if you lingered a bit longer at the top to luxuriate in the panoramic views. (The Google Maps estimate doesn't seem to account for the incline, and it's pretty much all inclines).

The Freyberg Pool is a good place to start - it's within striking distance from Courtenay Place, the city's entertainment hub, and is easy to find (it's a massive sports complex jutting out into the habour). Walk back down the road toward the city with the harbour on your right until you get to the cafe Lola Stays. Just to the left of that is a long steep row of steps. Go up those and turn right up another little stairway. Go down the road with the Copthorne Hotel on your right, then turn left then left again onto McFarlane (trust me, it's the only way). Keep going up McFarlane as it dips down and then soars up until the boats below start looking like toys.



On your right you'll start to see a old (well, early 20th century) brick monastery looming above you - that's St. Gerard's. There's a stairway just to the right of it. Go up that with the monastery now looming above you to the left.


Then just continue upwards along the road till you come to the start of the town belt on Mount Victoria. Once you've entered into the forrested realm (where the Dark Riders once roamed), things can get a bit confusing. There are so many little paths! Try to stick to the main one, and if you stray off it (as you probably will), just keep going up and to the right, way from the water sparkling away to your left through the trees.


Near the top at least you should be able to re-join the main walk-way, and start getting a sense of how things are about to open up into light and sky.


At this point you'll see Mt. Vic lookout itself, with its monuments, artifacts, and 360 views of Wellington Harbour (as well as its glimpse of the Cook Straight).



And somewhere down there you'll see St. Gerrard's again, this time with you looming above it.


At this point (if you want to follow this walk) look out for the Lookout Road (with the radio tower on the right of it), and walk along that, looking out along the way for look-outs, e.g. one onto the Westpac Stadium (a.k.a. 'The Cake Tin').


At the end of this there's a little lookout nook with a statue of the city's eponymos. And more views (e.g., if you look the other way from the last picture, it's like you're not really in a city at all).


From here there's another little stairway to the right. If you go down this you'll walk through or past a little green area/lawn/park. Here's the view back up the hill once you've done that.

As the sign suggests, you're now on Thane Road. Follow this on its winding downhill trip (with more views on the right over Evans Bay) until you turn a sharpish right corner with another green area to your right. (And a sign for the Southern Walkway). Get on this. It's not a stairway but it probably should be. Instead it's a virtually vertical concrete path that'll takes you like a glass elevator down as you face the harbour.


There are a couple of turns off here. You can basically turn left and even more sharply downhill whenever you feel like getting back to Oriental Parade. I think this one turns off onto Hay Street, but I kept going onto Glass. Here's the NuZild-shabby little park marking the turnoff onto Glass.


Just down the road from here there's also a secret meditation spot where, the day I was there, someone had left their passport - and then returned to get it just as I was wondering what to do. Anyway, once you've had your moment of reflection in the face of the harbour you can turn down to your final staircase, at which point Oriental Bay will be there to welcome you back.


And then? Get an ice-cream, lay on the beach, go for a swim - whatever you want. As with Bakalinsky's bountiful book, there are plenty of possible add-ons and variations, as well as completely different routes in the same area. This was just to get you started in case you needed an idea. Oh, and here's that last area on a slightly better map. If you want you can not turn down Glass but instead keep going to the end of the Southern Walkway, which would probably add 15 minutes or so.